Thursday, September 16, 2010

¡Viva México!

Today is an extraordinary day to be in Mexico. On this day 200 years ago, a Roman Catholic priest named Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla addressed the townspeople of Dolores, calling for a revolt against the Spanish government and for the defense of their land, religion and rights. The Battle of Guanajuato ensued a few days later and Mexico’s 10-year War of Independence was under way.



Every year on the night of September 15th, Hildalgo y Costilla’s famed speech is commemorated when the president gives a grito to a crowd of hundreds of thousands of people gathered in Mexico City’s Zόcalo. This grito is repeated by governors and mayors in cities and towns all over the country, including Cuernavaca.

Last night my friend Molly and I went with high expectations to Cuernavaca’s Zόcalo for the grito and we were not disappointed. Among the thousands of people were families and food vendors and merchants selling everything from giant bubble wands and balloons to patriotic knickknacks of every kind. The entertainment, which included dance and music groups honoring la patria, took place on a giant stage which was temporarily erected in the plaza and began early on in the evening. The security presence was high - bags were checked by police and most people were frisked upon entering the gated plaza - but there was energy and excitement in the air. The the crowd really got going with the performance of the headline artist, the one and only Pedro Fernández (Yeah, I didn’t know who he was either. Check out the fantastic music video below for a small taste of Pedro. My favorite part is the traditional mariachi garb of Pedro and his band juxtaposed with the football cheerleader-esque dancers.)



When Pedro finished, the mayor of Cuernavaca gave the much-anticipated grito and the crowd went wild. Below is the English translation of the grito (courtesy of Wikipedia) issued last night all over the country by Mexico’s president, governors, and mayors:

Mexicans!
Long Live the Heroes that gave us our Fatherland!
Long Live Hidalgo!
Long Live Morelos!
Long Live Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez!
Long Live Allende!
Long Live Aldama and Matamoros!
Long Live National Independence!
Long Live the Independence Bicentennial!
Long Live the Centennial of the Revolution!
Long Live Mexico!
Long Live Mexico!
Long Live Mexico!

It's hard to describe in words what it felt like to participate in the grito alongside the Mexican people. It gave me chills, to say the least. Here is a Youtube video of the grito in Mexico City that gives you an idea of what it's like. It's long, so just watch the beginning:



In addition to the Bicentennial celebration, today also marks the 100-year anniversary of the Mexican Revolution in which Francisco Madero led an uprising against the dictator Porfirio Díaz and for which Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata became legendary heroes. Also worth noting is a marked significance of this year's grito. While the wars for independence and political democracy have been fought and won by the Mexican people, the war against the narcos continues. Hopefully the spirit and determination of the likes of Hidalgo and Morelos will bring this country to triumph once again. ¡Que Viva México!

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Mexico City, Cont'd, and Roomies



A taquero friend. We estimated that he made about 100 tacos a minute. Watching him was absolutely mesmerizing.



A delicious torta.



My friend (and fellow North Park/Camp Squanto alumnus) Riley and I admired this pig's head we found at a taco stand.



With Cristiana, a fellow güera and friend.



My roomate Israel and his German girlfriend Cristiana, who will leave us on Sept. 15th. I will miss her.

Mexico City Photo Highlights



Notice the unevenness of the buildings. Mexico City was built on a dried up lake bed and the city sinks a few inches every year.



City workers have been busy decorating the Zócalo for Mexico's Bicentennial Independence Day Celebration on September 15th. It's going to be an extraordinary - and I mean absolutely unreal - day (week, really) of fiesta all over the country.



Boyscout convention in the Zócalo, Mexico City's central plaza. It was out of control.



On top of the Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacan.



Some of my fellow English Teaching Assistants who are now working in various cities throughout the country.

Friday, September 10, 2010

A Taste of Taxco



Today Molly, a friend and fellow ETA who also lives in Cuernavaca, and I visited the colonial city of Taxco, an hour and a half bus ride from Cuerna. Taxco is a colonial town famous for its silver deposits and beautiful, winding cobblestone streets. Friday was a great day to visit, as we encountered few other tourists. When I boarded the bus, I realized I had forgotten my trusty Lonely Planet Mexico guidebook. Hence, we set out on an aimless tour of Taxco with no expectations but rather hopes of discovery and pleasure. We were not disappointed. Molly and I randomly chose a road to take up the mountain on which Taxco is situated, and we lucked out – this steep, twisting road led us past groups of schoolchildren moseying home from school and an older gentleman caring for his goats (When we stopped to chat with him, he invited us to return at the end of September when the corn will be harvested. The Mexicans make unbelievable treats with their corn!); past sweeping Lord of the Rings-esque vistas of cloud-covered mountains; past fruit stands and stone churches and right to the towering Christ monument that overlooks the city. As today was the first consistently sunny day we have had in Mexico, the rest and feast of the senses we enjoyed at the monument was truly a mountain-top experience. I wish I could share pictures with you, but I am currently awaiting the arrival of my camera cable. Pictures will be posted soon!

We concluded our first, but not last, visit to Taxco with a fantastic meal at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the town square. For the foodies out there, I will describe the meal: soft sweet bread and chive spiced butter, fresh vegetable soup, cheese and bean enchiladas bathed in a delectable green salsa, agua de melón (cantaloupe water), and a cup of fresh-brewed coffee (This is significant because it’s relatively hard to come by a cup of coffee in Mexico that is not instant. Furthermore, this is curious because coffee is grown in 12 of Mexico’s 32 states. Hmmmmm…).

While Taxco is famous for its inexpensive silver jewelry, Molly and I were so full (physically and emotionally) from our day that we did not even venture into a store. For all you potential visitors, a trip to Taxco to wander around and shop is worth the visit to Mexico alone. And for all you lovers, this is an incredibly romantic place with tiny flower-adorned balconies and cobblestone alleyways. If you don’t believe me yet, just wait until you see the pictures.

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Meaning

I think it is appropriate that I take a moment to explain the title of this blog (pronounced GWE-rah seen fron-TE-rah). Besides the fact that it’s catchy (it’s catchy, ¿no?) it has significance. Güera is a name (an affectionate name, I’m told) the Mexicans give me and other light-skinned women (güero for men). It literally means “blondy,” or something of that sort. The Sin Frontera part means “without border.” I hope that this year I will be able to travel back and forth – virtually at least – between the United States and Mexico, carrying meaning and understanding with me.
Here are a few pictures from my first days in Mexican City during Fulbright orientation week.






Inicio



Listening to this song will create added reading pleasure, I guarantee it.

¡Saludos desde México! Telling stories has never been my strength. I’d rather receive them. However, part of my mission this year is to build cross-cultural understanding. That will mean sharing with the Mexican people stories about my experiences living in the United States and sharing with all of you stories of my experiences living in this country. I am honored to have such an opportunity. So I invite you to journey with me in Mexico as I learn, marvel, puzzle, muse, and celebrate my way through this coming year. ¡Ándale pues!